The History of Ireland is long and complicated - and one of the results of the struggle for independence was a further complication. Namely the creation of two separate states on this tiny island. As this event and the current situation continues to mystify visitors, let us try to explain what happened.
The Development of Irish Internal Divisions up to the 20th Century
Basically all trouble started when Irish kings were embroiled in civil war and Diarmaid Mac Murcha invited Anglo-Norman mercenaries to fight for them - in 1170 Richard FitzGilbert, better known as "Strongbow", first set foot on Irish soil. And he liked what he saw, married Mac Murcha's daughter Aoife and decided that he would stay for good. From hired help to king of the castle took just a few swift strokes with Strongbow's sword. Ever since then Ireland was (more or less) under English domination.
While some Irish arranged themselves with the new rulers and made a killing (often quite literally) under them, others took the path of rebellion. And ethnic distinction soon blurred, with the English at home complaining that some of their compatriots were becoming "more Irish than the Irish".
In Tudor times Ireland finally became a colony - England's and Scotland's excess populations as well as younger (landless) sons of the nobility were shipped to "Plantations", establishing a new order. In every sense - Henry VIII had spectacularly broken with the papacy and the new settlers brought the Anglican church with them, being simply called "protestants" by the native Catholics. Here the first divisions along sectarian lines started. These were deepened with the arrival of Scottish Presbyterians, especially in the Ulster Plantations.
Staunchly anti-Catholic, pro-Parliament and viewed with mistrust by the Anglican Ascendency they formed an ethnic and religious enclave.
Home Rule - and the Loyalist Backlash
After several unsuccessful nationalistic Irish rebellions (some led by Protestants like Wolfe Tone) and a successful campaign for Catholic rights plus a measure of Irish self-control, "Home Rule" was the rallying cry of Irish nationalists in the Victorian age. This called for the election of an Irish assembly, this in turn electing an Irish government and running Irish internal affairs within the framework of the British Empire. After two attempts Home Rule was to become reality in 1914 - but was put on the back burner due to the war in Europe.
But even before the shots of Sarajevo were fired, war-drums were beaten in Ireland - the pro-British minority, mainly centered in Ulster, feared loss of power and control. They preferred a continuation of the status quo. The Dublin lawyer Edward Carson and British Conservative politician Bonar Law became voices against Home Rule, called for mass demonstrations and in September 1912 invited their fellow unionists to sign the "Solemn League and Covenant". Nearly half a million men and women signed this document, some dramatically in their own blood - pledging to keep Ulster (at least) part of the United Kingdom by all means necessary.
In the following year 100,000 men enlisted in the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF), a paramilitary organization dedicated to preventing Home Rule.
At the same time the Irish Volunteers were set up in nationalistic circles - with the aim to defend Home Rule. 200,000 members were ready for action.
Rebellion, War and the Anglo-Irish Treaty
Units of the Irish Volunteers took part in the Easter Rising of 1916, the events and especially aftermath of which created a new, radical and armed Irish nationalism. The overwhelming victory of Sinn Féin in the 1918 elections led to the formation of the first Dáil Éireann in January 1919. A guerilla war waged by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) followed, ending in a stalemate and finally the truce of July 1921.
Home Rule had, in the light of Ulster's obvious refusal, been modified into a separate agreement for six predominantly Protestant Ulster counties (Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Derry/Londonderry and Tyrone) and a to-be-decided solution for "the South". This came in late 1921 when the Anglo-Irish Treaty created the Irish Free State out of the 26 remaining counties, ruled by the Dáil Éireann.
Actually, it was more complicated than that even … the Treaty, when coming into force, created an Irish Free State of 32 counties, the whole island. But there was an opt-out clause for the six counties in Ulster. And this was invoked, due to some timing problems, only the day after the Free State came into being. Thus for about one day there was a totally united Ireland, only to be split into two by the next morning. As they still say that with any Irish agenda for a meeting, topic number one is the question “When do we split into factions?”
So Ireland was divided - with the agreement of the nationalistic negotiators. And while a democratic majority accepted the treaty as the lesser evil, hard-line nationalists saw it as a sell-out. The Irish Civil War between the IRA and the Free State Forces followed, leading to more bloodshed, and especially more executions than the Easter Rising. Only in decades to come was the treaty to be dismantled step-by-step, culminating in the unilateral declaration of a "sovereign, independent democratic state" in 1937.
The Republic of Ireland Act (1948) finalized the creation of the new state.
The “North” Ruled from Stormont
The 1918 elections in the United Kingdom were not only successful for Sinn Féin - the Conservatives secured a pledge from Lloyd George that six Ulster counties would not be forced into Home Rule. But a recommendation of 1919 advocated a parliament for (all nine counties of) Ulster and another for the rest of Ireland, both working together. Cavan, Donegal and Monaghan were later excluded from the Ulster parliament ... they were deemed to be detrimental to the Unionist vote. This in fact established the partition as it continues until today.
In 1920 the Government of Ireland Act was passed, in May 1921 the first elections were held in Northern Ireland and a Unionist majority established the (planned) supremacy of the old order. As expected the Northern Irish Parliament (sitting in the Presbyterian Assembly's College until moving to grandiose Stormond Castle in 1932) rejected the offer to join the Irish Free State.
Implications of the Irish Partition for Tourists
Whereas up to a few years ago crossing from the Republic to the North might have involved thorough searches and probing questions, the border today is invisible. It's also virtually uncontrolled, as there are neither checkpoints nor even signs!
However, there are still some implications, for tourists and spot-checks are always a possibility. And with the specter of Brexit, the UK’s withdrawal from the EU, looming, things might get more complicated than this:
- Northern Ireland is still a part of the UK, the Republic a separate state - this means that you will have to check British and Irish immigration and visa rules before crossing the border.
- There are two currencies in Ireland - while the Republic uses the Euro, Northern Ireland clings to the Pound Sterling.
- When driving through Ireland you need to remember that road signs are different - especially that speeds and distances are posted in miles in the North, in kilometers in the Republic.
- Check with your rental car company whether you are actually allowed to cross the border - occasionally restrictions apply.
- Though Northern Ireland should not be regarded as a dangerous place, the security situation might call for inconvenient measures from time to time - traffic diversions being the most obvious.
- Prices can vary wildly between Northern Ireland and the Republic - petrol is usually far more expensive in the North while groceries might be cheaper there.