Spargel Recipes

Spargelsuppe
••• Spargelsuppe. Erin Porter

I already spotted them in the store, their white stalks dimly gleaming at me. It is Spargelzeit (white asparagus season). If you have not already tried authentic German Spargel, prepare to be wowed by the Germans dedication to it. On average, Germans devour almost 2 kilos (4.4 pounds) of the white gold during its short, several month long season. 

In anticipation of rush for asparagus, I have dusted off my old recipes and am ready to try some that are brand new.

Perhaps it is time for me to even consider a trip out of Berlin to Beelitz so I can watch the "King of Vegetables" emerge from the earth and be heralded like the royalty it is. In the meantime, I provide an overview of classic dishes as well as a zany recipe or two. It's Spargelzeit! Get crazy with it.

Deep in the midst of Spargelzeit, white asparagus is everywhere in Germany. But when you are confronted with the majestic pyramids of the "King of Vegetables" at the , you might be a bit lost at how to approach this Spargel. It is very different from green asparagus and requires unique preparation.

Here is how to buy, store and cook Spargel for spring in Germany.

Buying the right Spargel

White asparagus is delicate and finicky and there is usually at least one rod that turns out woody. Perhaps it so popular because the perfect bite can be so elusive.

Spargel is not hard to find as it is sold everywhere from early April to late June, from the fields it grows in to every grocer.

The skin should appear lightly luminescent - not dull - and the head should be closed. White asparagus must have solid rods that break easily, but are not overly flexible. Ceck for freshness by rubbing the rods together and listen for a squeak indicating they are moist. For easier cooking, select spears of uniform thickness.

Spargel is sold in classes based on their diameter once cut (larger rated higher), how tightly their tips are closed, straightness and if there are any signs of sun exposure such as pink/purple coloring.

  • Klasse extra - Best quality with straight rods, minimum diameter of 12 mm (15/32 inch) and closed tips. Suitable for an entree and cost 8 to 12 euros per kilo.
  • Klasse 1 / Handelsklasse I (HK I) - Very good quality with mostly straight rods, minimum diameter of 10 mm (3/8 inch), and some light coloration. Best served as a side dish and cost about 8 euros per kilo. 
  • Klasse 2 / Handelsklasse II (HK II) - Good quality with some curved stalks, minimum diameter of 8 mm (5/16 inch) and slightly opened flower heads. May have more color than HK I and higher chance of woodiness. This class is best for soups or purees and costs around 4 euros a kilo.

How do you eat it?

There is no wrong way to eat Spargel whether you choose to start on the thick bottom or bite off the fine top. It can be simply eaten with butter or hollandaise or accompany a full German meal.

After a quick wash, the stalks are peeled like a carrot to just below the tip. Once peeled, the bottom 1/4 inch is hacked off. The stalks are then boiled in water for about 12-20 minutes depending on thickness.

The water may be flavored with butter, salt or even a pinch of sugar (to reduce bitterness).  Poke the stem with a fork to tell if they are done. There should be some give, but don't overcook the Spargel so they turn to total mush.

Spargel should not be cooked in in an aluminum pot as the minerals in the asparagus react to the aluminum-oxide and turns the asparagus gray. To help it keep its color, lemon juice may also be added.

While Spargel are best eaten fresh it can be kept for a period of time. To keep it as fresh as possible, wrap it in a damp towel and store in the refrigerator for up to three days. If you can't bear the thought of a Spargel-less existence throughout the rest of the year, peel the veggie before freezing for up to 8 months.

Spargel Recipes

The Classics

Like so many great foods, Spargel is a bit finicky.

It can be quite woody if not prepared properly and much of the luxurious flavor comes from the fabulous sauces you pair with it. Good Spargel is subtle and fine and delicate. These pairings support that the best recipes may be the most simple. Try classics like:

The best version might be a combo of the bottom two with boiled potatoes. With the ham wrapped around the pointy spears and covered in buttery sauce you may begin to understand the German obsession. To prepare:

  • 1 lb. (or a little less than half a kilo) white asparagus per person
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 1 tbsp. butter
  • 1 tbsp. lemon juice (optional)

 

  • Prep Time: 30 minutes
  • Cook Time: 10 minutes
  • Total Time: 40 minutes

Cut off the root end of the Spargel and peel the tough outer layer like a carrots.

Boil the asparagus in water with salt, sugar and butter. You may add lemon juice which will help preserve the color. The heads should be out of the water but below the brim.

Cook for 10-15 minutes. At 10 minutes they still have the appropriate bite while past 15 minutes they start to get too soft.

Another suggestion as we move into warmer weather is to bring some Spargel to a Grillparty (recipes here). You are sure to be popular.

Other Common Spargel Recipes

Once you've experienced the classic, you might be inspired to tread further into the world of "white gold" (the German's affectionate term for the veggie).

Spargelsuppe (Cream of Asparagus Soup) - A version of asparagus soup literally appears on every restaurant menu around this time, but this clever recipe makes the home version easy and smart with the leftover shavings of the great white stalks.

Flammenkuchen mit Spargel und Prociutto - This ever popular Alsatian dish that resembles a thin pizza is often topped with Spargel in season. Pair with Italian prosciutto and you have the perfect savory meal.

Exotic Spargel Recipes

Since Spargel is literally everywhere when it is in season, it seems some German chefs take cooking  Spargel creatively as a challenge. The quintessential spring vegetable has been baked, braised and pulverized into an impressive array of appetizers, entrées and desserts.

Dirty Gin Martini with Pickled White Asparagus Spears - This intrepid drinker combines alcohol and Spargel. The Germans should be smitten. Or - in my opinion - even more appetizing would be a pickled spear in a nice tall Bloody Mary.

Spargel Eis (white asparagus ice cream) - In a country almost as mad about Eis (ice cream) as it is about Spargel, it is no surprise there have been impressive (if or if not successful?) efforts to combine the two. 

Regional Specialties

In a land where a ham hock can be treated as differently as Eisbein in Eastern Germany and Schweinshaxe in Bavaria, it is no surprise that there are different ways to enjoy Spargel around the nation.

In Brandenburg (the state surrounding Berlin), Spargel may be enjoyed after roasted it in butter with breadcrumbs. Serve with a fried veal cutlet.

Baden's asparagus is served with pancake known as Kratzete (rough translation to "rubbish") and ham (recipe above).

In the Lower Rhine, asparagus is eaten not just with melted butter, but scrambled eggs.

In Nuremberg, Spargel is served as a salad with whole, cooked rods and Nuremberg sausages.

The Spargel of Schleswig Holstein can be eaten with Süßkartoffeln (sweet potatoes) in their skins, but are still usually paired with ham and hollandaise sauce.

What to Drink with your Favorite Spargel Recipe

Asparagus - white or green - can be difficult to match with wine. Methionine, a sulfurous amino acid, and compounds known as thiols are found in asparagus and can make wines taste bitter. Luckily, by remembering just a few things you can have your Spargel and drink with it too.

Dry white wines are the most common go-to. Try a Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, young Grüner Veltliner or Silvaner (a German favorite).

If you prefer a red, go for light, unoaked red wine with low tannins. For example, a Pinot Noir can complement the Spargel depending on the dish.

Another important thing to remember is that it is not all about the Spargel, its also about the inevitable sauce. The sauce may actually be more important than the centerpiece. For an example, try pairing the most common sauce of hollandaise with a mature Chardonnay, traditional white Rioja or Champagne. Other recommendations can be found here.

And of course we can't give German drink options without mentioning the beer. Wheat beers appear to be a favorite with Belgian Witbier and good ole German Weißbiers topping the list.