You can't go to Salvador, a major city located on a pensinsula on Bahia's coast, without spending time in the old city of colorful colonial buildings, cobblestoned streets and a sense of history clustered around the Largo do Pelourinho, also known as Praça José de Alencar. This part of Salvador is known as Pelourinho, the city within a city. (Read more about Salvador, Bahia in Exploring Brazil's Northeast.
Nicknamed Pelo by residents this area is in the older part of the upper city, or Cidade Alta, of Salvador. It ecompasses several blocks around the triangular Largo, and it is the location for music, dining and nightlife.
Pelourinho means whipping post in Portuguese, and this was the old slave auction location in the days when slavery was common. Slavery was outlawed in 1835, and over time, this portion of the city, though home to artists and musicians, fell into disrepair. In the 1990's, a major restoration effort resulted in making the area a highly desirable tourist attraction. Pelourinho has a place on the national historic register and named a world cultural centery by UNESCO.
Easily walkable, Pelo has something to see along every street, including churches, cafes, restaurants, shops and the pastel-hued buildings. Police patrol the area to ensure safety.
Getting To Salvador
International and domestic flights fly to and from Salvado's airport about 30 km from the city center.
Check flights from your area. From this page, you can also browse hotels, rental cars, and special deals.
Busses run daily to and from other Brazilian cities, including Brasilia, Belo Horizonte, Recife, Fortaleza, Belem, and Porto Seguro.
When to Go
Salvador is an all-weather city. The winter months, June through August, can be very rainy, and some days cool enough for a jacket.
Otherwise, the city is hot, but the heat is tempered by ocean and bay breezes. Do not forget your sunscreen. Carnaval in Salvador is a huge event, and reservations are required.
- Stay in a hotel or pousada anywhere in Salvador, perhaps in accommodations recommended by Frommers, and take a cab or bus around the city. You can reach both levels of the city by the Lacerda Elevator. Take a walking tour around the upper city.
- Local cuisine is a mix of Brazilian and African cuisines, with an abundant use of the coconuts, ginger, hot peppers, shrimp, spices and flavorful dendê oil, made from palms. Go easy with dendê until your stomach is used to it.
- Pelo has many restaurants, though for better value, you may be better off eating elsewhere in the city. No matter where you are, try as comida-a-quilo restaurants, where you serve yourself and pay by weight. Some suggestions from Fommers.
- Pelourinho offers a variety of nightlife with bars and restaurants. Blocos practice almost every night in preparation for carnaval.
- Shop for handicrafts in Mercado Modelo, Praça da Sé, Terreiro de Jesus and numerous shops and galleries in Pelourinho, but be prepared for inflated prices. Mercado São Joaquim, also known as Feira São Joaquim), is a better choice.
Read page 2 for Things to Do and See!
- Olodum play on Sunday nights in the Largo do Pelourinho and draw crowds of dancers into the streets
- Filhos de Gandhi rehearse on Tuesday and Sunday nights
- Other music venues around Pelourinho include Coração do Mangue, Bar do Reggae dancers spilling out onto the street just about every night. Gueto, is the place to go for dance music.
- Tuesday night is probably the biggest night in Pelourinho. "Traditionally, important religious services known as 'Tuesday's Blessing' have been held every Tuesday at the Igreja São Francisco. The services have always drawn locals to Pelourinho, and since the restoration of the area, the weekly celebrations have turned into a mini-festival. Olodum play at the Teatro Miguel Santana on Rua Gregório de Matos, and other bands set up on Terreiro de Jesus, Largo do Pelourinho and anywhere else they can find space. Crowds pour into Pelourinho to eat, drink dance and the party lasts until the early hours of the morning."
A Town that's a Sanctuary
No matter when you go to Salvador, and Pelourinho, have fun! Write a report on the forum and tell us about your visit.