Pit Senyor! Welcome to the Philippines' Biggest Fiesta
If you only have enough time to catch one fiesta in the Philippines, then time your trip for Cebu's Sinulog festival on the third Sunday of January.
Sinulog is a raucous, no-holds-barred expression of Filipino culture: originally a Catholic festival celebrating the Santo Niño (Christ Child) icon housed in Cebu's Basilica del Santo Niño Church, Sinulog has metamorphosed into a Mardi Gras-like party-hearty weekend.
The Grand Parade that snakes its way through Cebu's major thoroughfares is certainly Sinulog's most popular event, though impromptu parties along Cebu's side streets have also become a memorable part of the Sinulog experience.
What is the Sinulog Festival?
There would be no Sinulog without the Santo Niño, and possibly no Catholicism in the Philippines either. This tiny, foot-high icon of the Christ Child is the Philippines' oldest religious relic, currently enshrined in its namesake church in Cebu (pictured above).
The statue was given by Ferdinand Magellan in 1521 as a baptismal gift to Humamay, the queen of the Rajah Humabon. According to legend, Baladhay, an adviser to the Rajah Humabon, lay ill within sight of the Santo Niño icon. After a few days, he was found healed and dancing with vigor; he explained that a small child (and he pointed to the Santo Niño) had tickled him awake.
Trying to scare the child away, Baladhay danced the steps of the "Sinulog" for the first time, in imitation of the movements of the river. Two steps forward, one step back - Santo Niño devotees dancing on the streets every Sinulog over the years have since followed (quite literally) in Baladhay's footsteps.
Sinulog Calendar of Events
The third Sunday of January is actually one of the last days of the Sinulog celebrations; the festival properly launches more than a week before this date.
The city government, local ecclesiastics and Santo Niño devotees kick Sinulog off with a penitential walk to the Basilica del Santo Niño. The next nine days afterwards are taken up by novena masses in Cebu's churches, celebrated alongside a packed calendar of art events, parties, and pageants throughout the city. (For an updated schedule of events, visit the official website at sinulog.ph.)
At the end of the novena period, the next few events take place in quick succession:
- Traslacion. On Thursday, the Santo Niño and an image of our Lady of Guadalupe - makes its way from the Basilica to the Shrine of Saint Joseph in neighboring Mandaue City.
- Fluvial parade. On Friday, a fluvial procession bearing the Santo Niño circles from Ouano Wharf to the island of Lapu-Lapu, then back to Cebu and the Basilica.
- Solemn parade. On Saturday, a solemn religious procession circles through Cebu's main thoroughfares, beginning and ending at the Basilica. Santo Niño devotees follow the procession, carrying candles while dancing the Sinulog. Some of them join to thank the Santo Niño for answered prayers; others join to seek favor for wishes not yet granted.
- Grand parade. On Sunday, a massive parade featuring teams of colorfully-dressed participants dances through Cebu's main thoroughfares. The parade culminates in a grand event at the Cebu City Sports Complex, where the best-performing troupes compete for over a million pesos in prizes.
- Hubo. A few days after the Grand Parade, a Mass called the "Hubo" (undressing) takes place at the Basilica - the Santo Niño is ritually undressed, bathed in perfumed water, and dressed before being placed back in its niche. The Hubo marks the official end of the Sinulog festival.
The Sinulog Grand Parade
As a visitor for Sinulog, do you have to stay for the whole lineup? Goodness, no! The Grand Parade is the biggest event on the Sinulog calendar (attended by 2 million last year) and it's the only one you need to see.
The Grand Parade marches slowly down a 4-mile loop; you can start watching the action from Mango Avenue (also known as General Maxilom Avenue), as the parade moves west down this road, around the Fuente Osmeña Circle, then down Osmeña Boulevard to the Cebu City Sports Center.
The groups participating in the Parade come from all over the Philippines. Towns send their best, most intricately-dressed dancers, all carrying copies of the Santo Niño while shouting "Pit Senyor!", swaying and prancing to the amplified beat of the Sinulog theme song on endless repeat (you will try to get it out of your head by the end of the day; you will fail).
Sinulog's Rowdy Party Scene
Over the past few years, Sinulog has evolved from a sober civic/religious festival to a rowdy once-a-year week-long party. Literally millions of teens and twenty-somethings crowd Cebu's streets during Sinulog - not just to watch the Grand Parade's colors, but also to hang out by the side streets radiating from Maxilom Avenue to celebrate.
The drinking scene in Cebu has moderated somewhat after the city declared alcohol illegal within 300 meters of the parade route. The parties have moved off the main streets and into other locations, with a series of parties throughout the week leading up to Sinulog.
Surviving Sinulog: Tips for Travelers
Cebu's Sinulog is probably the Philippines' biggest street party, and it can be overwhelming for the first-time visitor. To get the most out of your Sinulog experience, keep the following tips in mind:
Find a Cebu hotel within walking distance of the parade route. Public transportation in Cebu during Sinulog will slow to a standstill. Unless you have a privately hired ride waiting to take you to your hotel or hostel, you may find yourself stranded in the middle of the party zone. Our suggested solution: find a hotel along Fuente Osmeña or Maxilom Avenue, or within walking distance of these places.
Wear appropriate clothes. Sinulog weather is usually hot and sunny; wear light cotton clothing and comfortable shoes, as you can expect to do a lot of walking along the parade route and down the party side streets. (Read about weather in the Philippines.) Wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty - you and your shirt will be smeared with face paint by smiling locals.
Prepare for the heat. Bring a bottle of water with you, and wear sunscreen or a big hat to ward off the heat. (Read our list of sun protection tips for travelers to Southeast Asia.)
Go with the flow. Sinulog's massive crowds can be overwhelming. "Good vibes lang" (just good vibes) is the spirit of the day - take no offense at getting your face smeared with paint for the umpteenth time, take everything in good fun, and enjoy.
No bathrooms. The restaurant bathrooms around our drinking table had long waiting queues; there were no portalets in sight. Prepare your bladder for battle.
Repeat after me: "Pit Senyor!" This is the traditional Sinulog greeting, once reserved for praise to the Santo Nino, but now an expression of goodwill to fellow Sinulog partygoers. Say it to strangers, repeat it, don't be afraid to wear it out. Pit Senyor!