Like Oktoberfest with better weather, Bergkirchweih is an annual Volksfest (festival of the people aka time to drink lots of beer at the fair). It also takes place in Bavaria - Erlangen, Germany to be exact.
Every May, locals and travelers gather beneath towering chestnuts and oaks on long lines of wood benches. There are more than 11,000 seats for the estimated one million visitors - about ten times the town's population.
It is one of the biggest Open-Air-Biergartens in Europe.
History of Bergkirchweih
Erlangen dates all the way back to 1002, but this festival actually commemorates the birthday of the market square. It was moved from its original location on April 21st, 1755 and the festival has been happening ever since, making it one of the oldest festivals in Germany.
Guide to Visiting Bergkirchweih
Traditions at Bergkirchweih
Does Bergkirchweih feel like a tongue-twister? Try pronouncing it like the locals. The festival is known as Berch in the Franconian dialect, their pronunciation of the German word for "mountain", Berg. To blend in even further, dress in the proper Bavarian gear of Tracht (Lederhosen and Dirndl).
Make your way between the many Bierkeller (beer cellars) built into the hill, sampling their beers and singing the songs. That's right. There is singing. About every half hour the long benches get bouncing as German-speakers and non shout out,
Ein Prosit, Ein Prosit
Ein Prosit, Ein Prosit
...before slamming their beers together in an exuberant group "Prost"!
Beer at Bergkirchweih
The beer cellars where the majority of the drinking will take place are interspersed in the hill among the booths and carnival rides.
Look for the ever present Riesenrad (Ferris wheel) to mark the spot.
Festbier is served by the Maß (litre) in hefty stone beer mugs with a unique design for each year. Order "Ein Maß bitte" for 9 euro - not forgetting the 5 euro Pfand (deposit). You can keep the mug, or return it for the deposit at the end of the night - or any time during the festival. If they give you a token with the glass, you many need to return the token to get the refund. No glass is allowed into the festival (watch for young people saving money by drinking a crate on their walk in known as Kastenlauf or "crate walk"), so the Maß is the only way to fill up on beer.
Speaking of drinks, all the beer served at Bergkirchweih is local with special Festbiers brewed for the event. Brewers like Kitzmann and Steinbach are just two of the storied brewers featured here. Read more about the many Bierkellers and their products on the www.berch.info website.
Beers come in a variety of styles - but beware that they are generally stronger than normal German beers. This paired with the heat can make for a dangerous combo for staying upright. Radlers (beer and lemonade mix) and Weißbier are savers for lighter drinkers.
What to eat at Bergkirchweih
When is Bergkirchweih?
Bergkirchweih 2016 Date: May 12th - 23rd
The Fest is open daily from 10:00 til 23:00 (and from 9:30 on public holidays and Sundays) and the beer flows for 12 days.
Other special events:
- May 12th - Anstich: The festival traditionally begins on the Thursday before Pentecost. At 17:00, the mayor taps the first keg at Henninger Keller and it is free beer for the first lucky drinkers.
- May 17th - Erlanger Tag: Shops in Erlangen close early so locals can get in on the party.
- May 19th - Family Day: If you were worried about boozing with the kids, have no fear. Even on its rowdiest days the Fest is fine for families. But this special day offers discounts on rides and attractions until 20:00.
- May 22nd: If you want to recognize the soulful side, there is a church service at Erich Keller at 9:00.
- May 23rd - Closing Ceremony: The end of the festival means it is your last chance to jump on the rides and return your Maß until next year.
Where is Bergkirchweih?
The festival takes place in the Mittelfranken (Middle Franconian) town of Erlangen. This Bavarian hamlet lies to the north-west of Nuremberg and just south of Bamberg and is well connected by motorway, rail and bus.
As indicated by its nickname of Berch (or Berg), the festival itself is situated up a slight hill. Walk to the festival in about 10 to 15 minutes from Erlangen Bahnhof. Just join the masses as they make their way to the Fest or you can even do your own Kastenlauf.
Regular bus service connects the city (from Hugenottenplatz) to the Berg. If you feel too tipsy to make your way from the Fest, the local bus company (VGN) runs a dedicated night line from Leo-Hauck-Straße. If you prefer to drive yourself (and hold back on the beer), parking is limited nearby, but you can leave your car at a Parkhaus (parking garage) in town and walk or bus in.
Visitor Tips for Bergkirchweih
- Official site (with English): https://www.berch.info/
- Entrance is free.
- A cellphone signal can be hard to locate with all the mobile traffic so try to plan a meeting point beforehand.
- Keep small change on hand for the toilets. Each use costs 50 cents, paid by dropping your coin in the dish by the door. Attendants keep the facilities clean and papered. Also try to go before it is too late, lines can be excruciatingly long for women. Men, you luck out with a free pissoir so avoid using the trees.