The Bottom Line
Dune is the flagship restaurant of One & Only Resort’s Ocean Club on Paradise Island in the Bahamas, sister property to the Atlantis resort. The restaurant is the brainchild of renowned Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and features an interesting fusion menu and elegant yet comfortable ambience with wonderful views over Cabbage Beach. High prices may relegate Dune to a special occasion meal for many, however.
- Innovative French/Asian fusion cuisine with Bahamian influences
- Dramatic ocean views in an elegant yet comfortable atmosphere
- Unpretentious, attentive service
- High prices
- Long shuttle rides hinder accessibility from some Atlantis locations
- Address: One & Only Ocean Club, Paradise Island, Nassau, Bahamas
- Reservations: Required
- Dress code: Resort Elegant
- Hours: Breakfast 7 am to 11 am, Lunch noon to 2 pm; Dinner 6 pm to 9:30 pm. Bar open 11 am to midnight
- Prices: Main courses US$36-US$59 at dinner
Guide Review - Review of Dune Restaurant at the One&Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island, Bahamas
Paradise Island’s One & Only Ocean Club is home to Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Dune restaurant, where French-Asian cuisine meets the unique flavors of the Bahamas in a lovely setting worthy of this luxury resort's stately grounds.
The menu is perhaps more Asian than fusion. Chef Vongerichten makes wide use of fresh seafood and a smattering of tropical ingredients in keeping with the Caribbean location. The restaurant also has its own thriving organic herb garden on the Ocean Club’s well-manicured grounds, and this bounty is used extensively in Dune's dishes. An extensive wine list features both European and American wines.
Appetizers rely heavily on seafood: the crispy calamari served with a lemon cream sauce and hot peppers was a star, coated in the faintest batter and lightly fried, it was delicious even without the accompanying sauce. Dungeness black-pepper crab fritters were crisped pillows of lump crabmeat and herbs, served with endive and Asian pear on the side. Crispy goat cheese fondue was served alongside frisee, topped with crystallized pecans and red-pepper vinaigrette, like a mini salad. Chicken coconut-milk soup with galangal and shitakes was a very generous bowl of a version of Thai Tom kha gai soup -- a bit more salty and pungent that I prefer, but with a significant kick of spice that I appreciated.
The roasted Peking duck was richly flavorful and inventive, served with stir-fried shitake mushrooms and lily bulbs, asparagus and a confit of shallots. Another winner was the locally caught spiny lobster in mild curry sauce, served with bok choy and sweet, ripe plantains that complemented the curry. The beef sirloin with gingered mushroom and soy caramel emulsion was tender with a sauce of complex flavoring, reflecting Chef Vongerichten’s French classical training. The organic pork chop served with rhubarb and sweet onion fondue with sweet peas was moist and tasty, if not particularly exciting.
A must-do is a side of sweet rice. Made of glutinous, short-grain rice, this homage to the street markets of Thailand gets its sweetness from coconut milk and is steamed in banana leaves. I was reluctant to share -- and tempted to order a second serving for dessert.
Dune's décor is elegant -- cavernous ceilings, louvered and rattan screens, teak flooring and dark wood furniture with neutral cushions are accented by tablescapes of crystal, espresso and mandarin hues. Along with the outdoor patio area, dramatic picture windows in the dining room offer amazing views of the ocean from atop the seaside bluff.
Service was attentive if -- perhaps appropriately for a Caribbean resort -- a bit casual. It probably helped that we were only of three parties dining that night, but we never lacked for anything. Courses came out promptly, and the waiter was informative and pleasant. On a rainy night, it would have helped to have umbrellas at the door for the walk back to the hotel lobby, but that was a minor oversight on an otherwise enjoyable evening.
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