Cross-Country Skiing in Germany

Skiing in the Black Forest
••• © TI Feldberg

After promoting a post on alternative ski destinations in Germany, a reader asked where the best destinations for cross-country skiing were. Skilanglauf (cross-country skiing auf Deutsch) is indeed a popular activity with the country's alpine peaks and crystal clear views.

Most downhill resorts also offer cross-country trails, but some locations are vastly better than others. After consulting some local experts, I've put together a guide to cross-country skiing in Germany.

Cross-Country Skiing in the Alps

The obvious answer when you are looking for mountains in Germany is the Alps. These showstoppers are a major attraction for downhill skiers and scenery hunters. However, they are not the best location for flat trails.

Your best options for cross-country skiing in the Alps include:

  • Oberstdorf: This former site of the Nordic World Championships, this location still offers world-class cross-country skiing. There is a modern track system and optimum snow conditions.There are ten cross-country ski tracks at different levels with multiple-lanes and various entry/exit points. Trainers are available for beginners with several paths challenging the most advanced skiers. 
  • Schwangau: Lacking nothing in scenery, you can ski directly below Neuschwanstein
  • Oberammergau: The site of a century's old Passion Play, the trails are an excellent winter attraction along with nearby Ettal monastery (and brewery) and Linderhof Palace. Again on the skiing side, it hosts the König Ludwig Volkslauf.
  • Mittenwald: Located along the Austrian border, there is a network of trails leading into Seefeld. Crowds are lighter than the next option and the views and skiing are just as impressive. The trails are excellent and the small village it the essence of gemütlichkeit.
  • Garmisch-Partenkirchen: The focus on Germany's premier ski resort is indeed of the downhill variety. However, it does have 7 miles of cross-country trails and its many accommodations make it a good base for Oberammergau and Mittenwald.

Cross-Country Skiing in Mittelgebirge

The Mittelgebirge offer less dramatic backdrops than the Alps with their rolling hills instead of death-defying drops, but that really suits cross-country skiing. The snow may be better as well since the trails actually stand at a higher elevation. And unlike the Alps, services are geared toward  cross-country skiers with rental equipment, lessons and even supplies.

Your best options for cross-country skiing in Mittelgebirge:

  • Mittelgebirge Erzgebirge / Vogtland / Klingenthal: Within this region of Saxon Highlands and Uplands there is a huge network of well-maintained trails. From here, skiers can even cross into the Czech Republic.
  • Harz: These are the closest mountains for much of northern Germany, meaning you may need to fight the crowds. Schierke, at the foot of the Brocken (or Blocksberg), Göslar and Braunlage are a few of the best sites.
  • Thüringer Wald: Places like Oberhof were the elite training site of the DDR and it still hosts World Cup cross-country and biathlon competitions. A professional indoor skiing hall is even open to the public. Completely dedicated to cross-country skiing, the area features miles of trails like Rennsteig, Germany’s oldest long-distance trail.
  • Schwarzwald: There are trails all over the picturesque Black Forrest when the weather cooperates. The best trail is the Black Forest High Road where snow reliability is virtually guaranteed at an altitude between 700 and 1164 meters. There is also a connection to the Nordschwarzwald trail.
  • Bayrischer Wald: Once again along the borders of the Czech Republic, the Bavarian forest is brimming with mountains, valleys, lakes and nature reserves.
  • Rhön: Volunteers maintain several trails surrounding the Wasserkuppe mountain. Ideal for a day trip from Würzburg, this is the perfect outing for a laid-back trip.

This guide to cross-country skiing in Germany helps identify the top destinations, but each is still at the mercy of the weather. Germany is not the best place for skiing in Europe simply because it doesn't always get enough snow to make it worthwhile.

In warm winters, focus on areas with high elevation and be ready to turn a cross-country ski into a hike.